Copying old Super8mm home movies to DVD...

Thanks for the info.

I think I'll start by replacing my wife's video camera (which records on a 8mm tape) with one that records in digital format, either
a mini DVD or HD and which I can transfer to a computer, and which does have a variable shutter speed etc...

As for the flickering...
I think a friend of mine used to have a video camera (15 years ago) which had a adjustable shutter speed. So while filming a
sequence, each frame could be exposed for 1/1000th of a second or 1/100th of a second, or whatever range the camera allowed. But
regardless of the shutter speed, I assume that the sequence was still recorded with the same number of frames per seond, whether it
is still 18 frames/second or whatever the standard is.

Would I not need to adjust the frames per second of the movie projector to eliminate flickering. I don't imagine that the frames
per second would be adjustable on a video camera since it has to play back at a standard rate for the TV, or does it?

If this is anywhere near accurate, I'm wondering, could I replace the AC motor in my projector with a DC motor which I could then
adjust the speed until the flickering went away? I hope my dad doesn't ask for his movie projector soon! Actually I dont think this
is something I'd even try.

Or would adjusting the shutter speed of the video camera really reduce the flickering?

Just wondering.
Guy



>> The quality was better but the image flickered all the way through.
>
> You need to adjust the shutter speed until the flickering goes away.
> If this is a low-end model with no such setting, it might have a "slow
> shutter" effect (Sony camcorders do) that might (or might not) give
> acceptable results.
>
>> Does anyone know how to copy old home movies into a digital format -
>> and without the flicker?
>
> A good quality digital camcorder with a manual shutter setting can
> give really good results, but it will not give you "frame accuracy",
> i.e. some video frames will consist of two film frames blended
> together. If that is not acceptable for your needs, you need a machine
> that transfers the film frame for frame, such as this:
> http://www.moviestuff.tv/wp_xp.html
 >> Stay informed about: Copying old Super8mm home movies to DVD... 

"G Doucet" <someone.RemoveThis@somewhere.nb.ca> writes:
> I think a friend of mine used to have a video camera (15 years ago)
> which had a adjustable shutter speed. So while filming a sequence,
> each frame could be exposed for 1/1000th of a second or 1/100th of a
> second, or whatever range the camera allowed.

Yes, and you want to set it to a fairly long time - assuming you use
NTSC video, 1/60th of a second will probably do the trick for you. It
is important that at some point during the time the video camera's
shutter is open (figuratively speaking - video cameras don't have real
mechanical shutters), the projector's shutter is also _entirely_ open,
so that the entire picture gets captured by your video camera. It is
when this fails to happen, because of too fast shutter speed, that
flickering results.

> Would I not need to adjust the frames per second of the movie
> projector to eliminate flickering.

I assume these are silent films, otherwise you would not want to
run the projector at anything else than 24 frames per second - it
would sound all wrong.

SO, the films are probably shot at 18 fps. NTSC video is 30. You don't
want to speed the film up that much, it would look very odd. And
besides, you would almost certainly not be able to sync the machines
perfectly. "Real" telecine projectors are connected to the video
camera to make their respective shutters run perfectly in sync.
Remember that it's not sufficient to have exactly the same speed on
both machines - they have to be "in phase" with each other as well; if
they run at the same speed but with the camera's shutter closed when
the projector's is open, you'd just get a black picture all the way
through!

> I don't imagine that the frames per second would be adjustable on a
> video camera since it has to play back at a standard rate for the
> TV, or does it?

That's right - NTSC (the American standard) uses 30 frames (or 60
fields) per seconds, whereas PAL runs at 25 frames (50 fields). Film
is 24 fps for sound film; silent film speed can vary tremendously, but
when it comes to Super8 home movies it's usually 18.

> Or would adjusting the shutter speed of the video camera really
> reduce the flickering?

Setting a long enough shutter speed will eliminate the flicker
entirely, but some video frames will then be "blends" of two film
frames.


Others have suggested you have this done professionally, and that is
not bad advice if these films are at all important. But the
do-it-yourself-route can be a lot of fun, it can give very good
results, and it is of course a lot cheaper. Just make sure your
projector is in good shape and doesn't damage the (unique!) films.

--
Fredrik Sandström
fsandstr.RemoveThis@abo.fi
 >> Stay informed about: Copying old Super8mm home movies to DVD... 

Aha, it all makes sense, slower shutter speeds. For some reason I thought it had to quicker. But now I understand.

Yes NTSC.

My father shot a few small reels of 8mm, but most of it (a few hours worth) is in super 8mm. There is no sound, and my father
mentionned 18 frames per second.

And you're right that if I speed up the projector to show 30 frames per second, people would be walking too fast, and like you said,
it doesn't solve the issue that the machines would have to be synchronized, and even if they did begin synchronized, they would
probably get in and out of sync over the lenght of the movie clip.

So basically, I have 18 frames going by in one second, and I have to shoot them 30 times during that same second. So some of the 30
frames will be identical, while others (fewer yet) will be like a double exposure. I can not see the double exposure being any
problem.

Thanks for all,
Guy

> Yes, and you want to set it to a fairly long time - assuming you use
> NTSC video, 1/60th of a second will probably do the trick for you. It
> is important that at some point during the time the video camera's
> shutter is open (figuratively speaking - video cameras don't have real
> mechanical shutters), the projector's shutter is also _entirely_ open,
> so that the entire picture gets captured by your video camera. It is
> when this fails to happen, because of too fast shutter speed, that
> flickering results.
 >> Stay informed about: Copying old Super8mm home movies to DVD...